On the island where Columbus made landfall in 1492, an entire people was gone within a generation. A diver's account of San Salvador today: its vanished Lucayans, its limestone walls and hammerhead sharks, a patch of staghorn coral against the odds, and a contentment that sits close to neglect.
27 June 2026 · 9 min read
Ten kilometres south of Guadeloupe, eight small volcanic islands — two of them about the most quietly beautiful places in the Lesser Antilles, and one of the Caribbean's best dives in the channel between.
20 June 2026 · 6 min read
Three hundred and forty miles off Costa Rica, reachable only by a day and a half at open sea, lies an island of buried gold, hammerhead schools, and a family's name carved in the rock. A dispatch from the place Cousteau called the most beautiful in the world.
13 June 2026 · 8 min read
My experience buying a suggestive nut in the Seychelles.
5 June 2026 · 4 min read
Malé - more than an airport
We arrived to the Maldives by boat, pulling up to Malé in the morning haze in late January, 2023. The atolls are barely visible above
30 May 2026 · 6 min read
Rapa Nui — Easter Island — lies in the southeastern Pacific, approximately 3,500 kilometres from the coast of Chile and approximately 2,000 kilometres from the nearest inhabited Polynesian island. It
30 May 2026 · 2 min read
The Faroe Islands lie in the North Atlantic between Iceland and Norway: 18 volcanic islands, roughly 1,400 square kilometres in total, home to approximately 54,000 people speaking a
30 May 2026 · 2 min read
The Indonesian archipelago holds 75 percent of the world’s coral species. UNESCO designated it a Biosphere Reserve in September 2025. The government promised to revoke its mining permits in June. The revocation letters were never issued.
23 May 2026 · 2 min read
Mount Yasur on Tanna Island is one of the most accessible active volcanoes on earth. The communities at its base have lived alongside it for centuries. Their relationship with the mountain — reverence without fear — is not what visitors expect.
23 May 2026 · 2 min read
The Mekong slow boat from the Thai border takes two days. Most travellers fly. The ones who take the river arrive somewhere completely different — and the difference has nothing to do with the destination.
23 May 2026 · 1 min read